Today's Edition
RAJEEV CHERIAN (AL RAMS, RAS AL KHAIMAH)
A four-month journey at sea, with up to 14 hours spent diving each day, breath-holding for two to three minutes on each dive, and subsisting on a daily ration of just four coconut-shell cups of water, a humble breakfast and a simple dinner: the voyage in search of pearls demanded immense endurance, patience and willpower.
The allure of Arabian pearls, the UAE's pearling way of life of yesteryears and advances in pearl cultivation come to life at House of Pearls by Suwaidi Pearls in Ras Al Khaimah.
Located in Al Rams fishing village at the foot of Al Hajar Mountains, the House of Pearls keeps the UAE's pearling legacy alive through an immersive, hands-on experience that offers a close-up look into the world of pearling, blending cultural and ecological experiences.
With the aim of preserving and sharing the UAE's rich pearling heritage, Abdulla Rashed Al Suwaidi, a pearl diver and trader, from a long lineage of traditional pearl divers, established the House of Pearls in 2004.
The visitor journey starts with a boat ride to the House of Pearls in the Al Rams lagoon with the Hajar Mountains, mangroves and the coastal settlements forming a picturesque backdrop. Along the way, visitors may spot birds and camels cooling off in the shallow waters along the coast.
Revisiting a Bygone Era
Once at the House of Pearls, visitors are introduced to the history of natural pearls where the chance of finding one in a wild oyster was said to be just 1% in the days of traditional pearling.
The traditional pearling industry declined with the disruption caused by World Wars, the emergence of cultured pearls in Japan and the discovery of oil in the Arabian Gulf. The life aboard a pearling boat was also vividly presented at the House of Pearls.
Pearling crews embarked on journeys that lasted around four months during the summer, beginning in May, and sometimes lasting until October.
With clearly assigned roles, the boat crew included captain (Nakhuda), navigator (Al Sukuni), divers (Al Ghais), cook (Al Tabbakh), singer (Al Nahham), haulers (Al Seeb), captain’s assistant (Al Mejdemi) and reserves (Al Jallas). The crew size usually ranged from 15 to 20 in small boats and could reach up to 90 on larger vessels.
The Nahham, the singer, would recite poems and chants on board the vessel and the catchy rhythms kept sailors' spirits high and lightened their routine on the high seas.
A typical day on a traditional dhow or "jalboot" started with the Fajr prayer, followed by oyster opening. Breakfast consisted of Arabic coffee and dates, before the diving cycle began. Apart from breaks for prayer, the diving continued until sunset. The day ended with dinner of rice and fish – the only main meal prepared on the boat.
During the pearl diving season, divers spent long hours at sea and an experienced diver could make more than 150 dives in a day, depending on the depth of the pearl beds and sea conditions.
Fresh water was precious at sea, with each crew members allocated just four coconut-shell cups of water per day from "fintas", the traditional water container carried on the boat.
With a basket hanging around his neck and attached to a rope, the pearl diver descended to the seabed. A stone tied to his ankle allowed him to reach the oyster bed quickly, conserving precious energy for the dive. Holding his breath for up to one to three minutes, he gathered oysters and placed them in the basket. When he reached the limit of his breath, he would signal the hauler with tug on the rope and get pulled up swiftly with his catch.
World of Pearl Cultivation
The tour of the house then turns to oysters and the art of pearl cultivation. Today, only about 5% of the world's pearls are natural, making them far more valuable than cultured pearls.
A natural pearl forms by chance when an irritant becomes trapped inside an oyster. The oyster protects itself by coating the irritant with layers of nacre, the layered material that lines its shell. These layers of nacre eventually become the pearl.
However, the cultured ones are created through a controlled process, as the name suggests. Oysters are first nurtured for about a year before a small bead nucleus is gently implanted inside them. They are then returned to the lagoon in oyster nets.
After another year, the oysters are opened to check whether a pearl has formed.
Even with careful cultivation, there is only about a 60% chance of success, as some oysters reject the nucleus instead of producing a pearl.
Oysters are also vital to the marine environment: a single oyster filters around 50 gallons of water per day.
Pearl Discovery Experience
A key highlight of the tour is the oyster opening, offering a moment of discovery into the mystery of pearling. As it's gently pressed upon, a shining pearl emerges – a treasure of the sea and the fruit of patience, expertise and nature's remarkable process.
The tour then moves to the pearl merchant's chest, known as bishtakhtah, where visitors are introduced to pearls of varying sizes and lustre stored in cloth pouches.
The chest also contains a weighing scale and small sieves for sorting pearl sizes.
The pearl can vary in shape, size and colour depending on the conditions in which it lives and the type of oysters. The pearl's surface, lustre and smooth texture determine its value.
One of the standout items in the display is the pearling trade manual titled "Kitaab Al La’ali" (The Book of Pearls) written by Mohammed Ata Allah Al Qadi and printed in Bombay with Sheikh Saeed bin Muhammad Saeed Al Madfa' of Sharjah bearing the expense.
The book offers insights into the pearling trade, documenting the value, size and weight of pearls. Pearls are measured in chow, a traditional unit used to assess and determine their value.
The tour culminates with a visit to a jalboot, a pearling boat, anchored beside the House of Pearls, offering visitors a glimpse into the sailors' life aboard.
On the vessel, visitors are introduced to old navigation maps, tools and details of the humble deck that served as a living space at sea, carrying hopes and dreams of pearl divers while their loved ones awaited their return on shore.
